Monday, January 31, 2022

Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 Fashion Week

Haute Couture 2022 Fashion Week. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 fashion week Top News Headlines

  • Thierry Mugler died night before Haute Couture fashion week.
  • Schiaparelli presented “flat” couture, or “Schip” show of reproduced looks of Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler, and Jean Paul Gaultier, claiming that these looks are unique and invented by Daniel Roseberry, creative director. Images of “re-invented” famous looks of Pierre Cardin compared to the new looks of Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli flooded social media networks.
  • Schiaparelli presented its new collection to PurnHub Producer Kanye West, assumingly that these pieces will soon be used in his production.
  • Kanye West came to several fashion shows of menswear and Haute Couture with black pantyhose over head, as a bank robber from 1980s. That made huge laugh all over United States and pinned by Snoop Dogg and Kevin Hart. Apparently Kanye West wanted to match his ex-wife Kim Kardashian look, who was suppose to come for Haute Couture fashion week (cancelled at last moment). She appeared in black outfit made for her by Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, for Met Gala 2021.
Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 review by RUNWAY MAGAZINE - Top News Headlines - Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Pharrell Williams
Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 review by RUNWAY MAGAZINE - Top News Headlines - Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Pharrell Williams

Scandal - Kanye West, Kim Kardashian at Paris Fashion Week 2022
Scandal - Kanye West, Kim Kardashian at Paris Fashion Week 2022
  • On the occasion of Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture, “On Aura Tout Vu” (“We’ve seen it all”) presented “Haute Couture” sex-toys and showed them at their show “Superheroes”. The brand is entitled to use “Haute Couture” term for its production, as this brand is accepted by Fédération française de la couture (French fashion federation) as Haute couture invited guest and member. Haute Couture brand presented sex-toys as “Haute Couture” accessories to the media and during their show. Federation of Haute Couture didn’t express their opinion, didn’t put any ban on this production and use the “Haute Couture” name for sex-toys. For the last couple of years Federation of Haute Couture accepted as invited guests to present at Haute Couture fashion week the designers who have no connection to production in France, or don’t comply even with one requirement, or don’t have any production at all.
  • Federation of Haute Couture accepted Ralph Rucci (American designer) as part of the official calendar of The Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, to present this season…. This designer never had production in France, he didn’t use any French atelier of métier d’art (ateliers of handmade crafts). In fact, this designer presented his old “collection” of drawings he did in 1990-2000s with marks 2022 and photos of his sketches with attached fabrics. The media received press-release and lookbook of drawings called “Ralph Rucci Spring Summer 2022 Haute Couture Collection”. NOTHING has been produced yet – not in France, not anywhere else. The brand invited media and buyers to contact for the appointment. The participation at Haute Couture fashion week has quite a high fee. How desperate Federation of Haute Couture could be to accept this?!!
  • Pharrell Williams appeared at the shows wearing a reproduction of extraordinarily rare Mughal spectacles “Halo of Light” or “Gate of Paradise” (XVII century spectacles, named by the owners Mughal Royals, India). Pharrell Williams, who became a new creative director of Tiffany, claimed that this is his original “custom-designed” glasses. Sotheby’s chairman Edward Gibbs told CNN that  “As far as we know, there are no others like them.” Production of exact copy, without mentioning the original, and presentation to public as  Tiffany’s new glasses created another international scandal.
Pharrell Williams reproduction for Tiffany & Co of Mughal spectacles - XVII century spectacles, India
Pharrell Williams reproduction for Tiffany & Co of Mughal spectacles - XVII century spectacles, India
  • Chanel announced a new CEO, and the first woman leader Leena Nair. The Haute Couture house announced that Leena Nair, the former Unilever human-resources chief, would assume the role of CEO in January 2022. She’s replacing Alain Wertheimer, Chanel’s co-owner. She was supposed to come to Paris and see the team, see the Chanel Haute Couture show, and meet the media. And to the very surprise of all, she cancelled her presence and didn’t appear at the show, she didn’t meet the designer or the media.
  • Chanel after giant controversy with the first edition of Chanel advent calendar 2021 issued in December 2021 ($825 price for the several stickers and freebies available with every purchase at Chanel + 1 perfume, 1 soap and 2 lipsticks) announced just day before Haute Couture fashion week that the prices for the Chanel bags increased to $10 000. It is practically double. This decision for unjustified prices right after pandemic, when economically everybody has weakened, brought another wave of negative public opinion, and will probably give backfire and another boycott from buyers of luxury goods.
Chanel advent calendar 2021 - $825 for 22 stickers and freebies
Chanel advent calendar 2021 - $825 for 22 stickers and freebies

  • Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2022 show started with Charlotte Casiraghi riding horse. Although this collection didn’t have any piece or look which is related to horse-riding. The collection was intended for a new CEO and presented the best pieces of Karl Lagerfeld redesigned by Virginie Viard, creative director of Chanel, for an occasion. Chanel has been pinned for attempting to become an equestrian brand, and a clumsy hit on Hermes fashion house.  Virginie Viard also decided to give a “black eye” to some models without special announcement. Apparently it was done simply to pay some special homage to battered women.
  • Unusually “quiet” and dull collection of Christian Dior in black, navy, gray, and brown also surprised the guests and big public. And also the same day Dior released a fabulous book about John Galliano from 1997-2007 with the designs of great designer. This is not just a different time of the Dior house. This is two different worlds – talent and banality. And it looked like two different forces in Dior house ripping it apart. Christian Dior belongs to LVMH luxury group.
  • LVMH luxury group announced Louis Vuitton fashion house is not defining itself solely as a fashion house, but as a true “cultural creation company”. The fashion house sells “desire” and “culture” rather than watches or dresses. Louis Vuitton, its flagship, is described as a “cultural brand with a global audience” which also reaches a very large clientele in generation Z. This is a big and quite important step as from this moment on fashion becomes a cultural attribute, which can and should be protected as a cultural heritage. 
  • Pierre Cardin,  a fashion house known in the 1960s for the futuristic fashion style, made its relaunch under the new direction of nephew of the designer Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin. Fabulous show took place at Le Bourget, and the runway was installed under the Space Rocket Ariane 5.
That was a rich fashion week by its news and difference announcements.

And on a personal note: “Fashion” dressed, or more likely ridiculously dressed people, who are hanging around the entrance to the fashion shows, more and more becoming public laughing stock. Add here when they interviewed – they are appallingly stupid, and have no idea about fashion industry, they are here to show themselves, like some sort of rotten “fashion leftover”.

Fashion can be an expression of personal feelings, a statement, and can be considered as an art… but not anymore. When it was started more than 40 years ago it made sense  – fashion became a concept, an attraction, much more than expression of a personal style. Vivienne Westwood is a very good example. Although today it is just ridiculous, and more and more fashion is associated with this ridiculously dressed crowd, less and less public have an interest in fashion. If fashion luxury brands are not intended to change it – the gap between luxury fashion brands and the public will be much larger than it is today, which will lead to massive financial losses.

Already today people don’t follow the fashion shows and new trends dictated by luxury brands, as it was before. Many people don’t even know the names of the luxury brands. As an example, Fendi Haute Couture show this season was watched live only by 4000 people all over the world, youtube and instagram put together. And the number of buyers may not even come to a couple of hundred. That is how little interest the public have today to the massive production of luxury goods and the luxury industry. Something to think about.

Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 Best of

This Paris Haute Couture fashion week was very rich by the events. The effect was like an earthquake. Shake it, shake it, baby, but not stir! It’s been a long time when everything became some sort of routine for the designers, media and buyers.

But apart from that what about the fashion and style? What actually designers showed for the Spring Summer 2022 season? And what actually can become a trendsetter?

Christian Dior showed the collection in black, navy, gray, and brown. Very simple looks, the “quiet fashion”, as Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior, called it. The silhouettes are very simple and casual. See all looks of Dior Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli, as being said, showed a collection of the looks so well chosen and reinvented from Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler, and Jean Paul Gaultier, with slight difference that these looks meant for Kanye West and his new adventure and production. Suzy Menkes, known independent fashion expert, called it “Schiap show”. See all looks of Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy - Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022
JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy - Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika showed wonderful and very fresh looks. This Spring Summer collection included several very cute long and short cocktails dresses. What I personally like here is that collection is not attached to the one country codes. This dress I can easily see in New York, Paris, or Milan. And I can definitely wear one. See all looks of Georges Hobeika Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Georges Hobeika Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Georges Hobeika Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Chanel for this season finally made a beautiful come back to Karl Lagerfeld looks, this sparkle might light up Chanel once again. This collection has been very criticized by brand lovers for the quality, by experts for absence of the one line of the collection, by influencers and “watchdogs” of fashion for taking on Hermes market. “Black eye” given to some models (with make up of course) didn’t give any comments of public, as it was simply not understood. See all looks of Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Carla Bruni fabulously appeared for Didit Couture Spring Summer 2022 advertising campaign. Radiant and graceful, former First Lady of France, former model, lighten up the sky over Haute Couture fashion week this season. See all looks of Carla Bruni for Didit Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Carla Bruni for Didit Hediprasetyo Couture Spring Summer 2022
Carla Bruni for Didit Hediprasetyo Couture Spring Summer 2022

Valentino presented its Couture Spring Summer 2022 collection in the form of old fashion presentation/show under flag displayed on the Valentino’s building on Place Vendome, “Anatomy of Couture”. Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli brings the world close in a reimagined Salon de Couture: stripped of distraction, and singularly focused on his latest collection. An expression of physicality, a look into infinite shapes with the collection of Valentino “Anatomy of Couture”. I personally find this collection wonderful. Even the looks were not new, many of them are recreated by the designer from previous seasons, but garments were adapted for all shapes and ages. See all looks of Valentino Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 collection is another ode, another poesy. He has such recognizable style. Golden fluid shiluettes, and this time the accent made on the jewelry, giant, absolutely magnificent jewelry. See all looks of Stephane Rolland Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. It was another fabulous show. Yes, Elie Saab is a Red Carpet designer. And the gowns he presents every season are created to praise femininity and grace. See all looks of Elie Saab Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. Jean Paul Gaultier collection this season presented by designer Glenn Martens from Y/Project. Glenn Martens is Creative Director – Diesel, and his own brand Y/Project. “This is a celebration of Gaultier. I’ve stayed close to the woman Jean Paul created in the past—pure diva goddess beauty,” – said Glenn Martens in his notes. He reinvented the iconic marinière with barely visible constructed lines in his own way. “Jean Master” tried to reach the iconic look of Gaultier by waiving the lines up and down. I personally find it like a great success. See all looks of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Franck Sorbier for Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 created another poesy,  “Ode of Life”. Probably this is the first time Franck Soriber created something very joyful. See all looks of Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Fendi Couture Spring Summer 2022. The story of this Fendi Haute Couture collection by Kim Jones is a story told by Fendi is a fantasy from past to the future. The historic codes of the city, its marble statues and aesthetic, are explored by creative director of Fendi Kim Jones. I personally find this collection “disoriented”, as if Kim Jones had so little interest to making it, he just used paints, like anybody else, on fluid fabrics, and patch couple of embroideries on the gowns. Collection was presented in France, so let’s give to Marianne, the female allegory of Liberty, a runway. See all looks of Fendi Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Fendi haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fendi haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. For this Haute Couture collection Ziad Nakad took a woman as a jewel. The choice of models as his muses for this season he came to France, Australia, Georgia, United States, Germany, Netherlands, and Korea. He wanted to dress the women from around the world. This collection is his statement that beauty is universal. See all looks of Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Pierre Cardin “Cosmocorps 3022” show was absolutely amazing finale for this so “disturbed” Haute Couture fashion week. This show was not just a tribute to the pioneer designer of “space” fashion but a magnificent relaunch of the brand, relaunch of the trend started in the 1960s. The Pierre Cardin show 2022 – Cosmocorps 3022 took place at Le Bourget Air and Space Museum, known to the world by its exposition of the plains, space rockets and the exposition of all important innovations and technologies related to space. Thousands of guests were invited to make the voyage from Paris to Le Le Bourget. We passed through the museum, accompanies by the robots, and following the lights, leading us to the Space Rocket Ariane 5, we came to the installed runway. See all looks of Pierre Cardin show 2022 – Cosmocorps 3022 HERE.

Pierre Cardin show 2022 - Cosmocorps 3022 Le Bourget by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Pierre Cardin show 2022 - Cosmocorps 3022 Le Bourget by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Well…. I love Happy endings. And that was it. Let’s also paraphrase “Pierre Cardin saved more than a day, he saved Haute Couture fashion week”. And we’ll continue Happily Ever After Haute Couture stories from Paris next season.

Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Wednesday, December 15, 2021

Paris Fashion Week 2021 Spring Summer 2022

Paris Fashion Week 2021 Spring Summer 2022 with Simpsons, Batman and Cone Bra. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Who brought the Simpsons to Paris Fashion Week?

This fashion week in Paris had a lots of “surprises”. And it is hard to say in what sense. I planned to write a Best of Paris Fashion Week 2021 review, but it came out like the WORST OF PARIS FASHION WEEK 2021.

Finally we had physical events, presentations, meetings. But this fashion week left an aftertaste of “dust”, something decadent, and non-existent. All luxury fashion houses tried to work on the scandals, and “amuse” their guests by presenting something “extraordinary”, or great treasures from the very long past.

The Simpsons presented by Balenciaga, a premiere of an episode in the presence of many stars and CEO of Kering François-Henri Pinault, according to several media outlets and mostly the bloggers, had the most loud buzz. He also said that this is original concept of Balenciaga. Does it really? And who brought the Simpsons to Paris Fashion week?

Surely you don’t think that Simpsons Balenciaga concept presented for Spring Summer 2022 was original. Balenciaga only used this concept, they didn’t create it. Harper’s Bazaar in 2009 did.

Strangely enough luxury brands like Gucci and Balenciaga are all about the “recycling”. They recycle the ideas and concepts of other companies, and mostly reuse the ideas and pieces from the past. This season Gucci didn’t show any collection during Milan Fashion Week 2021. The brand presented a concept Gucci Vault – online concept store, almost the same like Bottega Veneta, but with vintage Gucci pieces and t-shirts from some emerging designers instead.

Hands up! Harper’s Bazaar in 2009 brought the Simpsons family into fashion with very creative concept “The Simpsons Go to Paris with Linda Evangelista” (illustrations by Julius Preite, producer Laura Brown). Bart’s favorite supermodel, Linda Evangelista, takes the family for a French fashion folly. The story was published in October 2009 — featuring Fall-Winter 2009-2010 looks from Chanel, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier and Lanvin.

The Simpsons for Louis Vuitton by Harper’s Bazaar 2009
The Simpsons for Louis Vuitton by Harper’s Bazaar 2009

“LOUIS VUITTON. Family style. The Simpsons finally make the front row clad in custom Louis Vuitton, as Marc Jacobs waves to his number-one fans.“

The Simpsons for Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier by Harper’s Bazaar 2009
The Simpsons for Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier by Harper’s Bazaar 2009

“CHANEL. Karl Lagerfeld and his eager student, Homer, get the skinny on the ladies, in Chanel couture.”

In 2012 aleXsandro Palombo created wonderful series of the Marge Simpson as a fashion icon “Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses”. Multimedia Contemporary Pop artist and Activist, pioneer of social art, diversity, ethics and human rights, illustrator aleXsandro Palombo drew funny and elegant Marge Simpson in the most iconic characters and in the most iconic dresses.

Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses – AleXsandro Palombo – Recreating a Coco Chanel pose
Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses – AleXsandro Palombo – Recreating a Coco Chanel pose

Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses – AleXsandro Palombo – Thierry Mugler dress from 1995
Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses – AleXsandro Palombo – Thierry Mugler dress from 1995

Marge Simpson was wearing or repeated posses: Madonna’s famous Jean Paul Gaultier bustier; Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian dress 1965; Richard Avedon’s famous 1957 photograph of Carmen dell’Orefice; Kate Moss’s Playboy pose, shot by Mert and Marcus; Coco Chanel’s famous tweed suits; Bjork’s swan-adorned Oscars dress from 2001; Audrey Hepburn’s Breakfast In Tiffany’s Givenchy dress; Virginia Oldoini, Countess of Castiglione, photo by Pierre-Louise Pierson 1863; Versace dress famous by Elizabeth Hurley; Thierry Mugler dress from 1995; Pink Chanel suit worn by Jackie Kennedy 1963; Mary Quant look in famous mini skirt; Marilyn Monroe “Some Like It Hot” pose in white dress; Issa dress for Duchess of Cambridge;Gwyneth Paltrow in pink Ralph Lauren dress Oscars 1998; Grace Jones in Azzedine-Alaia dress; Dovima with Elephants, Dior, photo by Richard Avedon 1955; Catherine Walker dress for Princess Diana; Bar Suit from Christian Dior collection 1947; Andre Couregges in Sixties Paris; Julia Roberts in vintage Valentino at Oscars 2000; Victoria Beckham wears her own dress New York in 2013; Paco Rabanne iconic dress.

Balenciaga Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

So when Balenciaga in September 2021 came with The Simpsons concept it was “old”, ego-scratching concept proposed to The Simpsons producers by François-Henri Pinault and Demna Gvasalia, designer of Balenciaga. They produced under specific guideless an episode about Balenciaga. Although the way they presented France, French culture (cliché related to France) and the collection itself was more like “Ready-to-Fart” collection than anything else.

And Balenciaga invited the stars to watch it. The stars who attended The Simpsons Balenciaga premiere: Naomi Campbell, Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Anna Wintour, Cardi B, Isabelle Huppert, Lewis Hamilton, Elliot Page, and many others.

Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE



Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli with one “L” and Cone Bra from Texas

Another overused, very dusty concept recycled by Daniel Roseberry, designer from Texas for Haute Couture house Schiaparelli, during Paris Fashion Week for Spring Summer 2022 season. Couple of years ago this designer assumed the position of creative director of this fabulous French luxury house. At first he didn’t get it. He didn’t get it at all. He put himself on runway playing piano. In 2020 he finally understood “what this house is all about”. Somehow from surrealism creative concept it came down just to the reproduction of the body parts: eyes, nose, breasts, belly.

Daniel Roseberry used all his talent, Lesage house (embroideries), and other French artisans to burst the market with his collections, and show what he is capable of. We are not deceived! I can tell you that! 2020 year started so wonderfully great for the house and for Daniel Roseberry. And the Schiaparelli ready-to-wear line came alone.

This Paris Fashion Week Schiaparelli didn’t do the show or presentation, Daniel Roseberry just sent the lookbook to the couple of media. Although the dramatic transformation from surrealism and elegance of Haute Couture French house to vulgarity of underground Los Angeles or Las Vegas pole dance bars became visible to all. It all started from the Daniel Roseberry‘s choice of his muse – Cardi B, a rap singer. There’s a VERY thick line between extravagant and vulgar. Well… not thick – chunky… very chunky…

Cardi B – muse of Daniel Roseberry, designer for Schiaparelli
Cardi B – muse of Daniel Roseberry, designer for Schiaparelli

I don’t even want to analyze that. Is that a childhood sexual fantasies of Daniel Roseberry about vulgar sexually explicit subject matter known in porn, or his teenager dreams to do the Las Vegas costumes for low pole dance bars? Anyway all of this came alive this season from Schiaparelli house.

And what about the Bullet Bra or Cone Bra? This is very old concept from 1950s Daniel Roseberry strangely enough decided to produce for this Ready-to-Wear Spring Summer 2022 season. It is “of course” not a plagiarism. But it is almost, and very questionable. Jean Paul Gaultier brought this bra back to fashion – he created spectacular outfits for Madonna in 1990s. The creations of Jean Paul Gaultier are so spectacular that they became The Wonder for Las Vegas and Los Angeles stage costume designers.

Bullet Bra or Cone Bra 1950s – fashion history
Bullet Bra or Cone Bra 1950s – fashion history

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990

This fabulous Madonna performance and extravagant look created everlasting trend, recreated in the movies, cosplay costumes, you name it, until today. But every time it was associated with Jean Paul Gaultier and Madonna. Working jean denim fabric, and use it to transform underwear into outwear was one of his primary innovations in fashion history, and the one trend Jean Paul Gaultier known for even to people who are not interested in fashion at all.

Dolly Parton concert by Ron Davis in 1992, and Stephanie Faracy in Madonna costume in Hocus Pocus, 1993
Dolly Parton concert by Ron Davis in 1992, and Stephanie Faracy in Madonna costume in Hocus Pocus, 1993

Why Daniel Roseberry suddenly decided to reinvent the innovation of Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna from 1990s?

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022

There were also umbrella-hats and other innovations from 1990s reproduced by Daniel Roseberry for Spring Summer 2022 season. Should I start the whispering “plagiarism” already, or wait a little?
This whole Schiaparelli Haute Couture house story is extremely sad even more, after being dipped into thick mousse of vulgarity, amputated and sold by body parts by Texan Roseberry.
What exactly Haute Couture French house means to Daniel Roseberry? Did he really found profound meaning of surrealism, or any spark of the spiritual artistic value? Yo….. He probably only found the body parts – the eyes, years, breasts, belly, fingers and toes. They cut, dipped into gold, and sold out.

Daniel Roseberry kind of skipped this Paris Fashion Week. He was so busy preparing Schiaparelli store opening in New York. He proudly announced and happily dined to celebrate the first Schiaparelli American store opening at Bergdorf Goodman. Bergdorf Goodman and Schiaparelli share a rich history together, which began 90 years ago when Bergdorf Goodman welcomed Elsa Schiaparelli’s couture collections for the first time.

Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself in the boardroom the afternoon before the dinner, adding the name of the Haute Couture house SCHIAPARELLY largely…… and it adds to the story…

Daniel Roseberry forgot how to spell the name of the house he works for, and wrote Schiaparelli with one “L”.
Body parts…. sexually explicit subject matter … body parts…. is this the new meaning of Schiaparelli (with one “L”) French Haute Couture house interpreted from Texas?

Schiaparelli first store at Bergdorf Goodman, Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself for the dinner
Schiaparelli first store at Bergdorf Goodman, Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself for the dinner

Schiaparelli first store at Bergdorf Goodman, Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself for the dinner
Schiaparelli first store at Bergdorf Goodman, Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself for the dinner

What else can you see apart from the Simpsons and Cone Bras at Paris Fashion Week

You can see the Lanvin Batman. And there is another shocking story to tell. Lanvin decided to go over the rails and brought to the runway Batman for its Spring Summer 2022 season. Just out of the blue, not related in any way to the French luxury house or its founder Jeanne Lanvin concept. Why Batman? Because…. and that would be the complete answer.

Lanvin Batman Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Batman Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

The God is in the details… well… probably not this time. Did you notice that these Lanvin Batman bags very much resemble the concept introduced by Louis Vuitton recently with menswear collection?

The same concept from Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring Summer 2021 collection

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 vs Lanvin Batman Spring Summer 2022
Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 vs Lanvin Batman Spring Summer 2022

What do you think you see on the background of Lanvin Batman bag? This is not a logo of Lanvin – this is Gotham city! So Lanvin today decided to appropriate the comic book drawing of Gotham city as its new logo?

So many questions and there are no right answers. I can only guess Lanvin takes the same highway to hell as Nina Ricci. This wonderful house in 2021 lost its “heart” – the store on avenue Montaigne, the store Nina Ricci owned for more than 50 years. No more shows, no more elegance and grace, no history. Disappearance of this wonderful French fashion house, as disappearance of Sonia Rykiel fashion house, is another drama of this Paris Fashion Week.

Nina Ricci 39 avenue Montaigne Paris – Nina Ricci Spring Summer 2022
Nina Ricci 39 avenue Montaigne Paris – Nina Ricci Spring Summer 2022

From Batman to Balmain or How wonder boy Olivier Rousteing tried to “overwrite” the reality, and bring public attention to his Balmain Festival and Balmain fashion show that no one was interested in.

Since July 2021 Olivier Rousteing, designer for Balmain, known counterfeit designer, announced that he is preparing something big, something amazing, something absolutely gigantic – Balmain Festival, Balmain Fashion show and launch series produced by him “Fracture”.

He waited millions and millions to see, to come and to swell with the tears and adoration… but during this Paris fashion week 2021, as well as any other, no one was interested in it. His series got only 1,490 followers, so he had to remove its instagram account and stop communication. “The Biggest music festival”, as Olivier Rousteing announced it, attended maybe 50 people.

What Olivier Rousteing thinks Balmain Festival V02 is, and What Balmain Festival V02 really is
What Olivier Rousteing thinks Balmain Festival V02 is, and What Balmain Festival V02 really is

For Balmain fashion show everybody was invited. And when I said everybody – I meant everybody, people from the street were caught by his assistants and literally pulled into the hall to see the show. No one really posted anything on Instagram, not about the Festival, and not about the show. Olivier Rousteing paid to the different media to “overwrite” the reality. Ones again he distributed the press-releases announcing that he had a success like Beyoncé. No matter what media shamelessly published this press-release the reality remains the same. NO ONE IS INTERESTED!!!

Paris Fashion Week 2021 for Spring Summer 2022 season – the Worst of

Do you want me to say that there was a happy ending to this fashion week? Do you want me to say that the French Luxury Brands are very very “sick”, and ceasing to exist? Oh…. after all of this I still have a HOPE. Not for these brands of course. Stupidity is incurable. But for the others who might look at these stories and try to rectify the mistakes they did or about to do, blindly following other luxury brands.

Many general managers of luxury brands today don’t understand that the luxury brand is not only about its logo or monogram, it’s about creative heritage, style and impeccable recognizable style, quality and extraordinary design and craft. Creative heritage made the luxury brand famous and loved, nothing else. Losing this it’s like losing a massive chunk of a culture destroyed by barbarians, or simply a spine, or meaning of life. They are acting as barbarians themselves, they are savagely cruel, exceedingly brutal to the identity and symbolism of the luxury brand they manage. Their management is simply primitive, and reduced to the use of its assets like logo or monogram for example on anything which could be sold, including caps, or wax and jean. But here we are.

Paris Fashion Week 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Paris Fashion Week 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

THAT’S ALL!
Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Wednesday, July 8, 2020

Best of Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week

Best of Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week - Paris Fashion Report by RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital – Day 1. It was quiet a challenge today for the fashion houses, Federation and for the spectators to follow. But of course we all witnessed several amazing and very creative surprises.
READ MORE about it day by day on www.RUNWAYMAGAZINES.com
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 1
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 2
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 3

Best looks:

Aganovich Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019-2020 for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Aganovich Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019-2020 for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI - Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI - Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guo Pei Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guo Pei Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Marguela Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Marguela Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maurizio Galante Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maurizio Galante Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar - Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar - Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE