Showing posts with label Haute Couture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Haute Couture. Show all posts

Monday, January 31, 2022

Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 Fashion Week

Haute Couture 2022 Fashion Week. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 fashion week Top News Headlines

  • Thierry Mugler died night before Haute Couture fashion week.
  • Schiaparelli presented “flat” couture, or “Schip” show of reproduced looks of Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler, and Jean Paul Gaultier, claiming that these looks are unique and invented by Daniel Roseberry, creative director. Images of “re-invented” famous looks of Pierre Cardin compared to the new looks of Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli flooded social media networks.
  • Schiaparelli presented its new collection to PurnHub Producer Kanye West, assumingly that these pieces will soon be used in his production.
  • Kanye West came to several fashion shows of menswear and Haute Couture with black pantyhose over head, as a bank robber from 1980s. That made huge laugh all over United States and pinned by Snoop Dogg and Kevin Hart. Apparently Kanye West wanted to match his ex-wife Kim Kardashian look, who was suppose to come for Haute Couture fashion week (cancelled at last moment). She appeared in black outfit made for her by Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, for Met Gala 2021.
Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 review by RUNWAY MAGAZINE - Top News Headlines - Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Pharrell Williams
Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 review by RUNWAY MAGAZINE - Top News Headlines - Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Pharrell Williams

Scandal - Kanye West, Kim Kardashian at Paris Fashion Week 2022
Scandal - Kanye West, Kim Kardashian at Paris Fashion Week 2022
  • On the occasion of Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture, “On Aura Tout Vu” (“We’ve seen it all”) presented “Haute Couture” sex-toys and showed them at their show “Superheroes”. The brand is entitled to use “Haute Couture” term for its production, as this brand is accepted by Fédération française de la couture (French fashion federation) as Haute couture invited guest and member. Haute Couture brand presented sex-toys as “Haute Couture” accessories to the media and during their show. Federation of Haute Couture didn’t express their opinion, didn’t put any ban on this production and use the “Haute Couture” name for sex-toys. For the last couple of years Federation of Haute Couture accepted as invited guests to present at Haute Couture fashion week the designers who have no connection to production in France, or don’t comply even with one requirement, or don’t have any production at all.
  • Federation of Haute Couture accepted Ralph Rucci (American designer) as part of the official calendar of The Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, to present this season…. This designer never had production in France, he didn’t use any French atelier of métier d’art (ateliers of handmade crafts). In fact, this designer presented his old “collection” of drawings he did in 1990-2000s with marks 2022 and photos of his sketches with attached fabrics. The media received press-release and lookbook of drawings called “Ralph Rucci Spring Summer 2022 Haute Couture Collection”. NOTHING has been produced yet – not in France, not anywhere else. The brand invited media and buyers to contact for the appointment. The participation at Haute Couture fashion week has quite a high fee. How desperate Federation of Haute Couture could be to accept this?!!
  • Pharrell Williams appeared at the shows wearing a reproduction of extraordinarily rare Mughal spectacles “Halo of Light” or “Gate of Paradise” (XVII century spectacles, named by the owners Mughal Royals, India). Pharrell Williams, who became a new creative director of Tiffany, claimed that this is his original “custom-designed” glasses. Sotheby’s chairman Edward Gibbs told CNN that  “As far as we know, there are no others like them.” Production of exact copy, without mentioning the original, and presentation to public as  Tiffany’s new glasses created another international scandal.
Pharrell Williams reproduction for Tiffany & Co of Mughal spectacles - XVII century spectacles, India
Pharrell Williams reproduction for Tiffany & Co of Mughal spectacles - XVII century spectacles, India
  • Chanel announced a new CEO, and the first woman leader Leena Nair. The Haute Couture house announced that Leena Nair, the former Unilever human-resources chief, would assume the role of CEO in January 2022. She’s replacing Alain Wertheimer, Chanel’s co-owner. She was supposed to come to Paris and see the team, see the Chanel Haute Couture show, and meet the media. And to the very surprise of all, she cancelled her presence and didn’t appear at the show, she didn’t meet the designer or the media.
  • Chanel after giant controversy with the first edition of Chanel advent calendar 2021 issued in December 2021 ($825 price for the several stickers and freebies available with every purchase at Chanel + 1 perfume, 1 soap and 2 lipsticks) announced just day before Haute Couture fashion week that the prices for the Chanel bags increased to $10 000. It is practically double. This decision for unjustified prices right after pandemic, when economically everybody has weakened, brought another wave of negative public opinion, and will probably give backfire and another boycott from buyers of luxury goods.
Chanel advent calendar 2021 - $825 for 22 stickers and freebies
Chanel advent calendar 2021 - $825 for 22 stickers and freebies

  • Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2022 show started with Charlotte Casiraghi riding horse. Although this collection didn’t have any piece or look which is related to horse-riding. The collection was intended for a new CEO and presented the best pieces of Karl Lagerfeld redesigned by Virginie Viard, creative director of Chanel, for an occasion. Chanel has been pinned for attempting to become an equestrian brand, and a clumsy hit on Hermes fashion house.  Virginie Viard also decided to give a “black eye” to some models without special announcement. Apparently it was done simply to pay some special homage to battered women.
  • Unusually “quiet” and dull collection of Christian Dior in black, navy, gray, and brown also surprised the guests and big public. And also the same day Dior released a fabulous book about John Galliano from 1997-2007 with the designs of great designer. This is not just a different time of the Dior house. This is two different worlds – talent and banality. And it looked like two different forces in Dior house ripping it apart. Christian Dior belongs to LVMH luxury group.
  • LVMH luxury group announced Louis Vuitton fashion house is not defining itself solely as a fashion house, but as a true “cultural creation company”. The fashion house sells “desire” and “culture” rather than watches or dresses. Louis Vuitton, its flagship, is described as a “cultural brand with a global audience” which also reaches a very large clientele in generation Z. This is a big and quite important step as from this moment on fashion becomes a cultural attribute, which can and should be protected as a cultural heritage. 
  • Pierre Cardin,  a fashion house known in the 1960s for the futuristic fashion style, made its relaunch under the new direction of nephew of the designer Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin. Fabulous show took place at Le Bourget, and the runway was installed under the Space Rocket Ariane 5.
That was a rich fashion week by its news and difference announcements.

And on a personal note: “Fashion” dressed, or more likely ridiculously dressed people, who are hanging around the entrance to the fashion shows, more and more becoming public laughing stock. Add here when they interviewed – they are appallingly stupid, and have no idea about fashion industry, they are here to show themselves, like some sort of rotten “fashion leftover”.

Fashion can be an expression of personal feelings, a statement, and can be considered as an art… but not anymore. When it was started more than 40 years ago it made sense  – fashion became a concept, an attraction, much more than expression of a personal style. Vivienne Westwood is a very good example. Although today it is just ridiculous, and more and more fashion is associated with this ridiculously dressed crowd, less and less public have an interest in fashion. If fashion luxury brands are not intended to change it – the gap between luxury fashion brands and the public will be much larger than it is today, which will lead to massive financial losses.

Already today people don’t follow the fashion shows and new trends dictated by luxury brands, as it was before. Many people don’t even know the names of the luxury brands. As an example, Fendi Haute Couture show this season was watched live only by 4000 people all over the world, youtube and instagram put together. And the number of buyers may not even come to a couple of hundred. That is how little interest the public have today to the massive production of luxury goods and the luxury industry. Something to think about.

Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 Best of

This Paris Haute Couture fashion week was very rich by the events. The effect was like an earthquake. Shake it, shake it, baby, but not stir! It’s been a long time when everything became some sort of routine for the designers, media and buyers.

But apart from that what about the fashion and style? What actually designers showed for the Spring Summer 2022 season? And what actually can become a trendsetter?

Christian Dior showed the collection in black, navy, gray, and brown. Very simple looks, the “quiet fashion”, as Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior, called it. The silhouettes are very simple and casual. See all looks of Dior Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli, as being said, showed a collection of the looks so well chosen and reinvented from Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler, and Jean Paul Gaultier, with slight difference that these looks meant for Kanye West and his new adventure and production. Suzy Menkes, known independent fashion expert, called it “Schiap show”. See all looks of Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy - Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022
JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy - Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika showed wonderful and very fresh looks. This Spring Summer collection included several very cute long and short cocktails dresses. What I personally like here is that collection is not attached to the one country codes. This dress I can easily see in New York, Paris, or Milan. And I can definitely wear one. See all looks of Georges Hobeika Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Georges Hobeika Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Georges Hobeika Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Chanel for this season finally made a beautiful come back to Karl Lagerfeld looks, this sparkle might light up Chanel once again. This collection has been very criticized by brand lovers for the quality, by experts for absence of the one line of the collection, by influencers and “watchdogs” of fashion for taking on Hermes market. “Black eye” given to some models (with make up of course) didn’t give any comments of public, as it was simply not understood. See all looks of Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Carla Bruni fabulously appeared for Didit Couture Spring Summer 2022 advertising campaign. Radiant and graceful, former First Lady of France, former model, lighten up the sky over Haute Couture fashion week this season. See all looks of Carla Bruni for Didit Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Carla Bruni for Didit Hediprasetyo Couture Spring Summer 2022
Carla Bruni for Didit Hediprasetyo Couture Spring Summer 2022

Valentino presented its Couture Spring Summer 2022 collection in the form of old fashion presentation/show under flag displayed on the Valentino’s building on Place Vendome, “Anatomy of Couture”. Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli brings the world close in a reimagined Salon de Couture: stripped of distraction, and singularly focused on his latest collection. An expression of physicality, a look into infinite shapes with the collection of Valentino “Anatomy of Couture”. I personally find this collection wonderful. Even the looks were not new, many of them are recreated by the designer from previous seasons, but garments were adapted for all shapes and ages. See all looks of Valentino Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 collection is another ode, another poesy. He has such recognizable style. Golden fluid shiluettes, and this time the accent made on the jewelry, giant, absolutely magnificent jewelry. See all looks of Stephane Rolland Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. It was another fabulous show. Yes, Elie Saab is a Red Carpet designer. And the gowns he presents every season are created to praise femininity and grace. See all looks of Elie Saab Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. Jean Paul Gaultier collection this season presented by designer Glenn Martens from Y/Project. Glenn Martens is Creative Director – Diesel, and his own brand Y/Project. “This is a celebration of Gaultier. I’ve stayed close to the woman Jean Paul created in the past—pure diva goddess beauty,” – said Glenn Martens in his notes. He reinvented the iconic marinière with barely visible constructed lines in his own way. “Jean Master” tried to reach the iconic look of Gaultier by waiving the lines up and down. I personally find it like a great success. See all looks of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Franck Sorbier for Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 created another poesy,  “Ode of Life”. Probably this is the first time Franck Soriber created something very joyful. See all looks of Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Fendi Couture Spring Summer 2022. The story of this Fendi Haute Couture collection by Kim Jones is a story told by Fendi is a fantasy from past to the future. The historic codes of the city, its marble statues and aesthetic, are explored by creative director of Fendi Kim Jones. I personally find this collection “disoriented”, as if Kim Jones had so little interest to making it, he just used paints, like anybody else, on fluid fabrics, and patch couple of embroideries on the gowns. Collection was presented in France, so let’s give to Marianne, the female allegory of Liberty, a runway. See all looks of Fendi Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Fendi haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fendi haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. For this Haute Couture collection Ziad Nakad took a woman as a jewel. The choice of models as his muses for this season he came to France, Australia, Georgia, United States, Germany, Netherlands, and Korea. He wanted to dress the women from around the world. This collection is his statement that beauty is universal. See all looks of Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Pierre Cardin “Cosmocorps 3022” show was absolutely amazing finale for this so “disturbed” Haute Couture fashion week. This show was not just a tribute to the pioneer designer of “space” fashion but a magnificent relaunch of the brand, relaunch of the trend started in the 1960s. The Pierre Cardin show 2022 – Cosmocorps 3022 took place at Le Bourget Air and Space Museum, known to the world by its exposition of the plains, space rockets and the exposition of all important innovations and technologies related to space. Thousands of guests were invited to make the voyage from Paris to Le Le Bourget. We passed through the museum, accompanies by the robots, and following the lights, leading us to the Space Rocket Ariane 5, we came to the installed runway. See all looks of Pierre Cardin show 2022 – Cosmocorps 3022 HERE.

Pierre Cardin show 2022 - Cosmocorps 3022 Le Bourget by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Pierre Cardin show 2022 - Cosmocorps 3022 Le Bourget by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Well…. I love Happy endings. And that was it. Let’s also paraphrase “Pierre Cardin saved more than a day, he saved Haute Couture fashion week”. And we’ll continue Happily Ever After Haute Couture stories from Paris next season.

Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Wednesday, July 8, 2020

Best of Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week

Best of Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week - Paris Fashion Report by RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital – Day 1. It was quiet a challenge today for the fashion houses, Federation and for the spectators to follow. But of course we all witnessed several amazing and very creative surprises.
READ MORE about it day by day on www.RUNWAYMAGAZINES.com
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 1
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 2
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 3

Best looks:

Aganovich Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019-2020 for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Aganovich Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019-2020 for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI - Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI - Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guo Pei Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guo Pei Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Marguela Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Marguela Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maurizio Galante Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maurizio Galante Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar - Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar - Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Monday, July 6, 2020

Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital – Day 1

Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital – Day 1. It was quiet a challenge today for the fashion houses, Federation and for the spectators to follow. But of course we all witnessed several amazing and very creative surprises.

Watch all collections HERE

Iris van Herpen presented a Dress…

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Young designer Antonio Grimaldi presented very elegant pieces with beautiful message “Hope” and “Love”. He put many effort to present his collection digitally. 

Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The biggest surprise of the first day of this Haute Couture fashion week was collection of Christian Dior. Maria Grazia Chiuri finally found her way to the creative source of the house. This is her first collection which might be considered as the collection of Dior House. No more monkey slippers, only beautiful transformation. 

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Digital Fashion week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Digital Fashion week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Digital Fashion week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Digital Fashion week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ralph & Russo presented new Haute Couture collection for the first time by digital Avatar, a virtually created model.

Avatar – Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar – Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI LIVE event. A unique tribute to our common Roman roots, to Italian excellence and to the deep feeling of unity inspired by the philosophical concept of “the soul of the universe”.

Accompanied by the Italian solo violinist Anna Tifu, the orchestra Accademia Disanta Cecilia played three movements from the concerto “Summer” of the Four Seasons by Vivaldi, in three different places in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, the headquarters of Fendi in Rome.
When creativity and know-how reach the purest form of perfection. Fendi Couture returns to the scene with an exclusive digital project supporting the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion.

A rare experience where fashion highlights the fantastic and the excellence of traditional techniques: discover five emblematic looks from the Fendi Couture 2015-2020 collections, photographed by the Italian artist Alessio Bolzoni, in front of the sublime Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome.

FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Today Louvre Museum proposed an extraordinary digital experience and view on its magnificent collections through the eye of fashion. From Marie de Médicis by Frans Pourbus to the Véronèse’s Belle Nani, Marie-Louise de Parme by Anton-Raphaël Mengs, the Marquise de Pompadour by Maurice-Quentin de la Tour or the Tiara of the Duchess of  Angoulême, an  unique perspective on the Louvre collections. 

Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week. Watch all collections HERE


Sunday, July 5, 2020

Semaine de la mode numérique haute couture et comment y assister

Semaine de la mode numérique haute couture et comment y assister. Tout ce mystère autour de la Fashion Week Haute Couture, événement sacré où seuls les élus peuvent voir le travail créatif des créateurs, des dieux de la mode, des créateurs de tendances et de l'opinion publique sur l'élégance et la grâce, celui qui habille les stars.

Ce mystère a un très beau début, et pendant près de 100 ans, de grands designers comme Christian Dior ou Karl Lagerfeld ont été ceux qui ont donné un sens à l'industrie de la mode et de la Haute Couture. Aujourd'hui, beaucoup de choses changent.

La haute couture n'est pas seulement de la «haute couture», pas même la création de vêtements exclusifs sur mesure. Et quel est le créateur de Haute Couture le plus important est membre du syndicat Haute Couture. Pour gagner le droit de se faire appeler Maison de Couture et d'utiliser le terme Haute Couture dans sa publicité et de toute autre manière, le créateur ou la maison de couture doit faire une demande d'adhésion à la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et doit suivre certaines règles.

Runway Magazine 2020 - Paris Fashion Report - Haute-Couture
Runway Magazine 2020 - Paris Fashion Report - Haute-Couture
En savoir plus sur HAUTE COUTURE, la définition et les créateurs qui ont le droit d'être appelés créateurs de Haute Couture ICI.

Pour la première fois et en raison des circonstances, la semaine de la mode Haute Couture devient numérique, avec des films de mode, des lookbooks proposant des collections à regarder depuis chez soi. Et c'est un événement public. Tout le monde peut y assister. Tous ceux qui suivent les tendances et qui sont toujours intéressés par la fonction de la mode et qui aimeraient savoir «quelle est la prochaine étape». Bien que l'industrie de la mode évolue rapidement. De moins en moins de gens sont réellement intéressés à suivre l'industrie de la mode et la façon dont elle existait depuis 50 ans, les magasins choisissant des pièces 6 mois à l'avance, la presse écrivant sur les grandes créations et les nouvelles tendances de l'élégance.

Du 6 au 8 juillet 2020, la Fédération de Haute Couture et Mode (FHCM) organise en ligne les défilés automne-hiver 2020-2021. Chaque maison présente en avant-première un film et certains dévoilant des visuels exclusifs. Cet événement est public. Seules quelques avant-premières réservées aux professionnels, pour une raison inconnue, car en même temps les créateurs de Haute Couture présenteront les collections sur leurs sites web et sur leurs chaînes youtube en direct. À la fin de la journée, il est important pour les créateurs de mode de montrer leurs collections au public. Mais peut-être le bourdonnement de quelques professionnels de gauche sur ce qu'est la Haute Couture d'aujourd'hui.
Runway Magazine 2019 - Paris Fashion Report - Haute-Couture
Runway Magazine 2019 - Paris Fashion Report - Haute-Couture
Cette semaine de la mode numérique haute couture réserve apparemment plusieurs surprises. L'un d'eux a été annoncé par le directeur «créatif» de la maison Balmain Olivier Rousteing. La maison Balmain tente depuis plusieurs saisons de rejoindre une sélection de créateurs de Haute Couture et de défiler durant cette semaine. Mais il n'a pas pu. Il y a bien sûr une raison à cela.

La célèbre maison française fondée par le grand designer Pierre Balmain en 1945 appartient aujourd'hui à Mayhoola Investments, une entreprise du Qatar. Cette entreprise est bien sûr passionnée par les produits de luxe et les bonnes ventes, et pas pour autre chose. C'est probablement la raison pour laquelle il y a près de 10 ans, le choix du designer de premier plan est tombé sur Olivier Rousteing, qui sait comment et où récupérer ses «créations». Il est devenu connu pour sa façon absolument audacieuse de ramasser des designs des années 90 de grands designers comme Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Franco Moschino ou Pierre Cardin et sans aucune hésitation en les annonçant comme une nouvelle propriété de Balmain, la rénovation et l'application de l'ADN de cette maison.

Cette fois-ci, Balmain n'ayant pas pu présenter officiellement la collection lors de cette semaine de la mode numérique haute couture, Olivier Rousteing a décidé de faire exploser Paris le soir du 5 juillet 2020 avec le salon nautique «Balmain sur Seine» sur Seine. Selon les communiqués de presse et les interviews distribués, Olivier Rousteing ne se soucie pas de la situation actuelle, de la distanciation sociale et de ce genre de choses liées à la pandémie. Il a décidé de faire un spectacle public sur bateau, consacré à "Black Power", car il sera écrit sur un bateau, mettant en vedette le chanteur Yseult avec des danseurs dans une sorte de performance musicale.

"Une péniche est de descendre la Seine le dimanche soir, donnant à tous ceux qui sont réunis sur les rives ou les ponts piétonniers une vue de la couture vintage et d'autres modes, un mini-concert de la chanteuse française Yseult et un spectacle de danse surprise", - a annoncé WWD dans un autre opulent, et apparemment très cher, hommage au Balmain, Olivier Rousteing et dédié à «Black Power» et à «Black Lives Matter». "Il est important de renforcer qui nous sommes et ce pour quoi nous sommes connus", a déclaré Olivier Rousteing dans son interview à WWD.

Danseurs dans les coulisses du défilé Balmain hommes automne 2020. Photo: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa / WWD
Danseurs dans les coulisses du défilé Balmain hommes automne 2020. Photo: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa / WWD
Lors de cette performance, les dernières «pioches» d'Olivier Rousteing et les créations emblématiques de 90s de différents designers seront mélangées (avec la note que tous ces designs appartiennent à Rousteing après cet événement), ainsi que les créations d'Oscar de la Renta, le directeur créatif le plus influent après Pierre Balmain (1993-2002). Cet événement sera également l'occasion de célébrer les 75 ans de la maison de couture Balmain sous l'énorme panneau «Black lives matter». Et des milliers de personnes en seront témoins. Nous ne savions pas que la couleur de la peau était une question ou une question pour la maison de couture Balmain dans le passé.

Pour info, il existe historiquement une méthode connue de manipulation de l'opinion publique. Au Moyen Âge en Europe, lorsque le roi perdait sa réputation devant les voisins et les gens du roi, et lorsque les accords avec les commerçants étaient en baisse (plus de ventes, pour le dire simplement) en raison de mauvaises décisions politiques et de la corruption, il traversait souvent une grande fête publique ou défilé. C'était toujours pompeux, y compris des performances de chanteurs et de danseurs pour le public, avec bien sûr de la nourriture et de l'argent pour le public. L'événement à retenir. Sonne familier? Est-ce ainsi que la maison Balmain d'aujourd'hui a décidé d'attirer de nouveaux clients?

Quoi qu'il en soit, la nouvelle façon de montrer numériquement les collections Haute Couture pour cette saison est quelque chose de nouveau et pourrait être pleine de grandes surprises, de grands travaux créatifs et d'innovations.

Réservez votre place au premier rang pour ce défilé poétique, théâtral et sublime de la Fashion Week Haute Couture.

Article par Eleonora de Gray, rédactrice en chef de RUNWAY MAGAZINE.