Wednesday, December 15, 2021

Paris Fashion Week 2021 Spring Summer 2022

Paris Fashion Week 2021 Spring Summer 2022 with Simpsons, Batman and Cone Bra. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Who brought the Simpsons to Paris Fashion Week?

This fashion week in Paris had a lots of “surprises”. And it is hard to say in what sense. I planned to write a Best of Paris Fashion Week 2021 review, but it came out like the WORST OF PARIS FASHION WEEK 2021.

Finally we had physical events, presentations, meetings. But this fashion week left an aftertaste of “dust”, something decadent, and non-existent. All luxury fashion houses tried to work on the scandals, and “amuse” their guests by presenting something “extraordinary”, or great treasures from the very long past.

The Simpsons presented by Balenciaga, a premiere of an episode in the presence of many stars and CEO of Kering François-Henri Pinault, according to several media outlets and mostly the bloggers, had the most loud buzz. He also said that this is original concept of Balenciaga. Does it really? And who brought the Simpsons to Paris Fashion week?

Surely you don’t think that Simpsons Balenciaga concept presented for Spring Summer 2022 was original. Balenciaga only used this concept, they didn’t create it. Harper’s Bazaar in 2009 did.

Strangely enough luxury brands like Gucci and Balenciaga are all about the “recycling”. They recycle the ideas and concepts of other companies, and mostly reuse the ideas and pieces from the past. This season Gucci didn’t show any collection during Milan Fashion Week 2021. The brand presented a concept Gucci Vault – online concept store, almost the same like Bottega Veneta, but with vintage Gucci pieces and t-shirts from some emerging designers instead.

Hands up! Harper’s Bazaar in 2009 brought the Simpsons family into fashion with very creative concept “The Simpsons Go to Paris with Linda Evangelista” (illustrations by Julius Preite, producer Laura Brown). Bart’s favorite supermodel, Linda Evangelista, takes the family for a French fashion folly. The story was published in October 2009 — featuring Fall-Winter 2009-2010 looks from Chanel, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier and Lanvin.

The Simpsons for Louis Vuitton by Harper’s Bazaar 2009
The Simpsons for Louis Vuitton by Harper’s Bazaar 2009

“LOUIS VUITTON. Family style. The Simpsons finally make the front row clad in custom Louis Vuitton, as Marc Jacobs waves to his number-one fans.“

The Simpsons for Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier by Harper’s Bazaar 2009
The Simpsons for Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier by Harper’s Bazaar 2009

“CHANEL. Karl Lagerfeld and his eager student, Homer, get the skinny on the ladies, in Chanel couture.”

In 2012 aleXsandro Palombo created wonderful series of the Marge Simpson as a fashion icon “Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses”. Multimedia Contemporary Pop artist and Activist, pioneer of social art, diversity, ethics and human rights, illustrator aleXsandro Palombo drew funny and elegant Marge Simpson in the most iconic characters and in the most iconic dresses.

Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses – AleXsandro Palombo – Recreating a Coco Chanel pose
Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses – AleXsandro Palombo – Recreating a Coco Chanel pose

Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses – AleXsandro Palombo – Thierry Mugler dress from 1995
Marge Simpson Iconic Dresses – AleXsandro Palombo – Thierry Mugler dress from 1995

Marge Simpson was wearing or repeated posses: Madonna’s famous Jean Paul Gaultier bustier; Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian dress 1965; Richard Avedon’s famous 1957 photograph of Carmen dell’Orefice; Kate Moss’s Playboy pose, shot by Mert and Marcus; Coco Chanel’s famous tweed suits; Bjork’s swan-adorned Oscars dress from 2001; Audrey Hepburn’s Breakfast In Tiffany’s Givenchy dress; Virginia Oldoini, Countess of Castiglione, photo by Pierre-Louise Pierson 1863; Versace dress famous by Elizabeth Hurley; Thierry Mugler dress from 1995; Pink Chanel suit worn by Jackie Kennedy 1963; Mary Quant look in famous mini skirt; Marilyn Monroe “Some Like It Hot” pose in white dress; Issa dress for Duchess of Cambridge;Gwyneth Paltrow in pink Ralph Lauren dress Oscars 1998; Grace Jones in Azzedine-Alaia dress; Dovima with Elephants, Dior, photo by Richard Avedon 1955; Catherine Walker dress for Princess Diana; Bar Suit from Christian Dior collection 1947; Andre Couregges in Sixties Paris; Julia Roberts in vintage Valentino at Oscars 2000; Victoria Beckham wears her own dress New York in 2013; Paco Rabanne iconic dress.

Balenciaga Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

So when Balenciaga in September 2021 came with The Simpsons concept it was “old”, ego-scratching concept proposed to The Simpsons producers by François-Henri Pinault and Demna Gvasalia, designer of Balenciaga. They produced under specific guideless an episode about Balenciaga. Although the way they presented France, French culture (cliché related to France) and the collection itself was more like “Ready-to-Fart” collection than anything else.

And Balenciaga invited the stars to watch it. The stars who attended The Simpsons Balenciaga premiere: Naomi Campbell, Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Anna Wintour, Cardi B, Isabelle Huppert, Lewis Hamilton, Elliot Page, and many others.

Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE



Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Simpsons Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli with one “L” and Cone Bra from Texas

Another overused, very dusty concept recycled by Daniel Roseberry, designer from Texas for Haute Couture house Schiaparelli, during Paris Fashion Week for Spring Summer 2022 season. Couple of years ago this designer assumed the position of creative director of this fabulous French luxury house. At first he didn’t get it. He didn’t get it at all. He put himself on runway playing piano. In 2020 he finally understood “what this house is all about”. Somehow from surrealism creative concept it came down just to the reproduction of the body parts: eyes, nose, breasts, belly.

Daniel Roseberry used all his talent, Lesage house (embroideries), and other French artisans to burst the market with his collections, and show what he is capable of. We are not deceived! I can tell you that! 2020 year started so wonderfully great for the house and for Daniel Roseberry. And the Schiaparelli ready-to-wear line came alone.

This Paris Fashion Week Schiaparelli didn’t do the show or presentation, Daniel Roseberry just sent the lookbook to the couple of media. Although the dramatic transformation from surrealism and elegance of Haute Couture French house to vulgarity of underground Los Angeles or Las Vegas pole dance bars became visible to all. It all started from the Daniel Roseberry‘s choice of his muse – Cardi B, a rap singer. There’s a VERY thick line between extravagant and vulgar. Well… not thick – chunky… very chunky…

Cardi B – muse of Daniel Roseberry, designer for Schiaparelli
Cardi B – muse of Daniel Roseberry, designer for Schiaparelli

I don’t even want to analyze that. Is that a childhood sexual fantasies of Daniel Roseberry about vulgar sexually explicit subject matter known in porn, or his teenager dreams to do the Las Vegas costumes for low pole dance bars? Anyway all of this came alive this season from Schiaparelli house.

And what about the Bullet Bra or Cone Bra? This is very old concept from 1950s Daniel Roseberry strangely enough decided to produce for this Ready-to-Wear Spring Summer 2022 season. It is “of course” not a plagiarism. But it is almost, and very questionable. Jean Paul Gaultier brought this bra back to fashion – he created spectacular outfits for Madonna in 1990s. The creations of Jean Paul Gaultier are so spectacular that they became The Wonder for Las Vegas and Los Angeles stage costume designers.

Bullet Bra or Cone Bra 1950s – fashion history
Bullet Bra or Cone Bra 1950s – fashion history

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990

This fabulous Madonna performance and extravagant look created everlasting trend, recreated in the movies, cosplay costumes, you name it, until today. But every time it was associated with Jean Paul Gaultier and Madonna. Working jean denim fabric, and use it to transform underwear into outwear was one of his primary innovations in fashion history, and the one trend Jean Paul Gaultier known for even to people who are not interested in fashion at all.

Dolly Parton concert by Ron Davis in 1992, and Stephanie Faracy in Madonna costume in Hocus Pocus, 1993
Dolly Parton concert by Ron Davis in 1992, and Stephanie Faracy in Madonna costume in Hocus Pocus, 1993

Why Daniel Roseberry suddenly decided to reinvent the innovation of Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna from 1990s?

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022

There were also umbrella-hats and other innovations from 1990s reproduced by Daniel Roseberry for Spring Summer 2022 season. Should I start the whispering “plagiarism” already, or wait a little?
This whole Schiaparelli Haute Couture house story is extremely sad even more, after being dipped into thick mousse of vulgarity, amputated and sold by body parts by Texan Roseberry.
What exactly Haute Couture French house means to Daniel Roseberry? Did he really found profound meaning of surrealism, or any spark of the spiritual artistic value? Yo….. He probably only found the body parts – the eyes, years, breasts, belly, fingers and toes. They cut, dipped into gold, and sold out.

Daniel Roseberry kind of skipped this Paris Fashion Week. He was so busy preparing Schiaparelli store opening in New York. He proudly announced and happily dined to celebrate the first Schiaparelli American store opening at Bergdorf Goodman. Bergdorf Goodman and Schiaparelli share a rich history together, which began 90 years ago when Bergdorf Goodman welcomed Elsa Schiaparelli’s couture collections for the first time.

Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself in the boardroom the afternoon before the dinner, adding the name of the Haute Couture house SCHIAPARELLY largely…… and it adds to the story…

Daniel Roseberry forgot how to spell the name of the house he works for, and wrote Schiaparelli with one “L”.
Body parts…. sexually explicit subject matter … body parts…. is this the new meaning of Schiaparelli (with one “L”) French Haute Couture house interpreted from Texas?

Schiaparelli first store at Bergdorf Goodman, Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself for the dinner
Schiaparelli first store at Bergdorf Goodman, Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself for the dinner

Schiaparelli first store at Bergdorf Goodman, Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself for the dinner
Schiaparelli first store at Bergdorf Goodman, Daniel Roseberry painted the tablecloth himself for the dinner

What else can you see apart from the Simpsons and Cone Bras at Paris Fashion Week

You can see the Lanvin Batman. And there is another shocking story to tell. Lanvin decided to go over the rails and brought to the runway Batman for its Spring Summer 2022 season. Just out of the blue, not related in any way to the French luxury house or its founder Jeanne Lanvin concept. Why Batman? Because…. and that would be the complete answer.

Lanvin Batman Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Batman Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

The God is in the details… well… probably not this time. Did you notice that these Lanvin Batman bags very much resemble the concept introduced by Louis Vuitton recently with menswear collection?

The same concept from Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring Summer 2021 collection

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 vs Lanvin Batman Spring Summer 2022
Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 vs Lanvin Batman Spring Summer 2022

What do you think you see on the background of Lanvin Batman bag? This is not a logo of Lanvin – this is Gotham city! So Lanvin today decided to appropriate the comic book drawing of Gotham city as its new logo?

So many questions and there are no right answers. I can only guess Lanvin takes the same highway to hell as Nina Ricci. This wonderful house in 2021 lost its “heart” – the store on avenue Montaigne, the store Nina Ricci owned for more than 50 years. No more shows, no more elegance and grace, no history. Disappearance of this wonderful French fashion house, as disappearance of Sonia Rykiel fashion house, is another drama of this Paris Fashion Week.

Nina Ricci 39 avenue Montaigne Paris – Nina Ricci Spring Summer 2022
Nina Ricci 39 avenue Montaigne Paris – Nina Ricci Spring Summer 2022

From Batman to Balmain or How wonder boy Olivier Rousteing tried to “overwrite” the reality, and bring public attention to his Balmain Festival and Balmain fashion show that no one was interested in.

Since July 2021 Olivier Rousteing, designer for Balmain, known counterfeit designer, announced that he is preparing something big, something amazing, something absolutely gigantic – Balmain Festival, Balmain Fashion show and launch series produced by him “Fracture”.

He waited millions and millions to see, to come and to swell with the tears and adoration… but during this Paris fashion week 2021, as well as any other, no one was interested in it. His series got only 1,490 followers, so he had to remove its instagram account and stop communication. “The Biggest music festival”, as Olivier Rousteing announced it, attended maybe 50 people.

What Olivier Rousteing thinks Balmain Festival V02 is, and What Balmain Festival V02 really is
What Olivier Rousteing thinks Balmain Festival V02 is, and What Balmain Festival V02 really is

For Balmain fashion show everybody was invited. And when I said everybody – I meant everybody, people from the street were caught by his assistants and literally pulled into the hall to see the show. No one really posted anything on Instagram, not about the Festival, and not about the show. Olivier Rousteing paid to the different media to “overwrite” the reality. Ones again he distributed the press-releases announcing that he had a success like Beyoncé. No matter what media shamelessly published this press-release the reality remains the same. NO ONE IS INTERESTED!!!

Paris Fashion Week 2021 for Spring Summer 2022 season – the Worst of

Do you want me to say that there was a happy ending to this fashion week? Do you want me to say that the French Luxury Brands are very very “sick”, and ceasing to exist? Oh…. after all of this I still have a HOPE. Not for these brands of course. Stupidity is incurable. But for the others who might look at these stories and try to rectify the mistakes they did or about to do, blindly following other luxury brands.

Many general managers of luxury brands today don’t understand that the luxury brand is not only about its logo or monogram, it’s about creative heritage, style and impeccable recognizable style, quality and extraordinary design and craft. Creative heritage made the luxury brand famous and loved, nothing else. Losing this it’s like losing a massive chunk of a culture destroyed by barbarians, or simply a spine, or meaning of life. They are acting as barbarians themselves, they are savagely cruel, exceedingly brutal to the identity and symbolism of the luxury brand they manage. Their management is simply primitive, and reduced to the use of its assets like logo or monogram for example on anything which could be sold, including caps, or wax and jean. But here we are.

Paris Fashion Week 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Paris Fashion Week 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

THAT’S ALL!
Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Wednesday, July 8, 2020

Best of Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week

Best of Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week - Paris Fashion Report by RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital – Day 1. It was quiet a challenge today for the fashion houses, Federation and for the spectators to follow. But of course we all witnessed several amazing and very creative surprises.
READ MORE about it day by day on www.RUNWAYMAGAZINES.com
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 1
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 2
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 3

Best looks:

Aganovich Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019-2020 for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Aganovich Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019-2020 for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI - Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI - Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guo Pei Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guo Pei Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Marguela Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Marguela Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maurizio Galante Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maurizio Galante Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar - Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar - Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Monday, July 6, 2020

Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital – Day 1

Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital – Day 1. It was quiet a challenge today for the fashion houses, Federation and for the spectators to follow. But of course we all witnessed several amazing and very creative surprises.

Watch all collections HERE

Iris van Herpen presented a Dress…

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Young designer Antonio Grimaldi presented very elegant pieces with beautiful message “Hope” and “Love”. He put many effort to present his collection digitally. 

Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The biggest surprise of the first day of this Haute Couture fashion week was collection of Christian Dior. Maria Grazia Chiuri finally found her way to the creative source of the house. This is her first collection which might be considered as the collection of Dior House. No more monkey slippers, only beautiful transformation. 

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Digital Fashion week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Digital Fashion week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Digital Fashion week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Digital Fashion week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ralph & Russo presented new Haute Couture collection for the first time by digital Avatar, a virtually created model.

Avatar – Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar – Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI LIVE event. A unique tribute to our common Roman roots, to Italian excellence and to the deep feeling of unity inspired by the philosophical concept of “the soul of the universe”.

Accompanied by the Italian solo violinist Anna Tifu, the orchestra Accademia Disanta Cecilia played three movements from the concerto “Summer” of the Four Seasons by Vivaldi, in three different places in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, the headquarters of Fendi in Rome.
When creativity and know-how reach the purest form of perfection. Fendi Couture returns to the scene with an exclusive digital project supporting the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion.

A rare experience where fashion highlights the fantastic and the excellence of traditional techniques: discover five emblematic looks from the Fendi Couture 2015-2020 collections, photographed by the Italian artist Alessio Bolzoni, in front of the sublime Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome.

FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI – Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Today Louvre Museum proposed an extraordinary digital experience and view on its magnificent collections through the eye of fashion. From Marie de Médicis by Frans Pourbus to the Véronèse’s Belle Nani, Marie-Louise de Parme by Anton-Raphaël Mengs, the Marquise de Pompadour by Maurice-Quentin de la Tour or the Tiara of the Duchess of  Angoulême, an  unique perspective on the Louvre collections. 

Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fashion in Louvre Digital presentation for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week. Watch all collections HERE


Sunday, July 5, 2020

Semaine de la mode numérique haute couture et comment y assister

Semaine de la mode numérique haute couture et comment y assister. Tout ce mystère autour de la Fashion Week Haute Couture, événement sacré où seuls les élus peuvent voir le travail créatif des créateurs, des dieux de la mode, des créateurs de tendances et de l'opinion publique sur l'élégance et la grâce, celui qui habille les stars.

Ce mystère a un très beau début, et pendant près de 100 ans, de grands designers comme Christian Dior ou Karl Lagerfeld ont été ceux qui ont donné un sens à l'industrie de la mode et de la Haute Couture. Aujourd'hui, beaucoup de choses changent.

La haute couture n'est pas seulement de la «haute couture», pas même la création de vêtements exclusifs sur mesure. Et quel est le créateur de Haute Couture le plus important est membre du syndicat Haute Couture. Pour gagner le droit de se faire appeler Maison de Couture et d'utiliser le terme Haute Couture dans sa publicité et de toute autre manière, le créateur ou la maison de couture doit faire une demande d'adhésion à la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et doit suivre certaines règles.

Runway Magazine 2020 - Paris Fashion Report - Haute-Couture
Runway Magazine 2020 - Paris Fashion Report - Haute-Couture
En savoir plus sur HAUTE COUTURE, la définition et les créateurs qui ont le droit d'être appelés créateurs de Haute Couture ICI.

Pour la première fois et en raison des circonstances, la semaine de la mode Haute Couture devient numérique, avec des films de mode, des lookbooks proposant des collections à regarder depuis chez soi. Et c'est un événement public. Tout le monde peut y assister. Tous ceux qui suivent les tendances et qui sont toujours intéressés par la fonction de la mode et qui aimeraient savoir «quelle est la prochaine étape». Bien que l'industrie de la mode évolue rapidement. De moins en moins de gens sont réellement intéressés à suivre l'industrie de la mode et la façon dont elle existait depuis 50 ans, les magasins choisissant des pièces 6 mois à l'avance, la presse écrivant sur les grandes créations et les nouvelles tendances de l'élégance.

Du 6 au 8 juillet 2020, la Fédération de Haute Couture et Mode (FHCM) organise en ligne les défilés automne-hiver 2020-2021. Chaque maison présente en avant-première un film et certains dévoilant des visuels exclusifs. Cet événement est public. Seules quelques avant-premières réservées aux professionnels, pour une raison inconnue, car en même temps les créateurs de Haute Couture présenteront les collections sur leurs sites web et sur leurs chaînes youtube en direct. À la fin de la journée, il est important pour les créateurs de mode de montrer leurs collections au public. Mais peut-être le bourdonnement de quelques professionnels de gauche sur ce qu'est la Haute Couture d'aujourd'hui.
Runway Magazine 2019 - Paris Fashion Report - Haute-Couture
Runway Magazine 2019 - Paris Fashion Report - Haute-Couture
Cette semaine de la mode numérique haute couture réserve apparemment plusieurs surprises. L'un d'eux a été annoncé par le directeur «créatif» de la maison Balmain Olivier Rousteing. La maison Balmain tente depuis plusieurs saisons de rejoindre une sélection de créateurs de Haute Couture et de défiler durant cette semaine. Mais il n'a pas pu. Il y a bien sûr une raison à cela.

La célèbre maison française fondée par le grand designer Pierre Balmain en 1945 appartient aujourd'hui à Mayhoola Investments, une entreprise du Qatar. Cette entreprise est bien sûr passionnée par les produits de luxe et les bonnes ventes, et pas pour autre chose. C'est probablement la raison pour laquelle il y a près de 10 ans, le choix du designer de premier plan est tombé sur Olivier Rousteing, qui sait comment et où récupérer ses «créations». Il est devenu connu pour sa façon absolument audacieuse de ramasser des designs des années 90 de grands designers comme Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Franco Moschino ou Pierre Cardin et sans aucune hésitation en les annonçant comme une nouvelle propriété de Balmain, la rénovation et l'application de l'ADN de cette maison.

Cette fois-ci, Balmain n'ayant pas pu présenter officiellement la collection lors de cette semaine de la mode numérique haute couture, Olivier Rousteing a décidé de faire exploser Paris le soir du 5 juillet 2020 avec le salon nautique «Balmain sur Seine» sur Seine. Selon les communiqués de presse et les interviews distribués, Olivier Rousteing ne se soucie pas de la situation actuelle, de la distanciation sociale et de ce genre de choses liées à la pandémie. Il a décidé de faire un spectacle public sur bateau, consacré à "Black Power", car il sera écrit sur un bateau, mettant en vedette le chanteur Yseult avec des danseurs dans une sorte de performance musicale.

"Une péniche est de descendre la Seine le dimanche soir, donnant à tous ceux qui sont réunis sur les rives ou les ponts piétonniers une vue de la couture vintage et d'autres modes, un mini-concert de la chanteuse française Yseult et un spectacle de danse surprise", - a annoncé WWD dans un autre opulent, et apparemment très cher, hommage au Balmain, Olivier Rousteing et dédié à «Black Power» et à «Black Lives Matter». "Il est important de renforcer qui nous sommes et ce pour quoi nous sommes connus", a déclaré Olivier Rousteing dans son interview à WWD.

Danseurs dans les coulisses du défilé Balmain hommes automne 2020. Photo: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa / WWD
Danseurs dans les coulisses du défilé Balmain hommes automne 2020. Photo: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa / WWD
Lors de cette performance, les dernières «pioches» d'Olivier Rousteing et les créations emblématiques de 90s de différents designers seront mélangées (avec la note que tous ces designs appartiennent à Rousteing après cet événement), ainsi que les créations d'Oscar de la Renta, le directeur créatif le plus influent après Pierre Balmain (1993-2002). Cet événement sera également l'occasion de célébrer les 75 ans de la maison de couture Balmain sous l'énorme panneau «Black lives matter». Et des milliers de personnes en seront témoins. Nous ne savions pas que la couleur de la peau était une question ou une question pour la maison de couture Balmain dans le passé.

Pour info, il existe historiquement une méthode connue de manipulation de l'opinion publique. Au Moyen Âge en Europe, lorsque le roi perdait sa réputation devant les voisins et les gens du roi, et lorsque les accords avec les commerçants étaient en baisse (plus de ventes, pour le dire simplement) en raison de mauvaises décisions politiques et de la corruption, il traversait souvent une grande fête publique ou défilé. C'était toujours pompeux, y compris des performances de chanteurs et de danseurs pour le public, avec bien sûr de la nourriture et de l'argent pour le public. L'événement à retenir. Sonne familier? Est-ce ainsi que la maison Balmain d'aujourd'hui a décidé d'attirer de nouveaux clients?

Quoi qu'il en soit, la nouvelle façon de montrer numériquement les collections Haute Couture pour cette saison est quelque chose de nouveau et pourrait être pleine de grandes surprises, de grands travaux créatifs et d'innovations.

Réservez votre place au premier rang pour ce défilé poétique, théâtral et sublime de la Fashion Week Haute Couture.

Article par Eleonora de Gray, rédactrice en chef de RUNWAY MAGAZINE.